If you take any desert tour from Marrakech, Agadir or Errachidia, you will almost certainly stop at Aït Ben Haddou. From far away it looks like a sand castle, rising in layers above the Ounila River. Up close, it is a village of houses, towers and narrow lanes, all built from earth, straw and wood.
A village on the caravan road
Aït Ben Haddou is a ksar, a fortified village. For centuries it stood on the trade route between the Sahara and Marrakech, where caravans carried salt, gold, dates and other goods across the mountains. The houses are packed close together inside a defensive wall, with tall corner towers. At the top of the hill stands an old agadir, a communal granary where the village kept its grain safe.
The buildings are made with a traditional method called rammed earth: wet clay is pressed into wooden frames and left to dry in the sun. It keeps the houses cool in summer and warm in winter, but it needs repairs after every rainy season. In 1987, UNESCO listed Aït Ben Haddou as a World Heritage Site, calling it a striking example of the architecture of southern Morocco.
A film star
Because it looks so old and so dramatic, Aït Ben Haddou has appeared in many films and series. Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and Game of Thrones all filmed scenes here or nearby, and the big studios of Ouarzazate are only about 30 kilometres away. Your driver will happily show you which corners appeared on screen.
Is anyone still living there?
Yes, but only a few families. Most people moved to the newer village across the river, where life is easier, with electricity and running water. The families who stay inside the old ksar often run small shops, cafés or art galleries, and some will invite you in to see a traditional house.
How to visit
- Come early or late. In the middle of the day, many tour buses arrive from Marrakech. In the morning and at sunset, it is quiet and the light is much better.
- Sleep there. Several of our tours spend a night in Aït Ben Haddou, so you can see it empty and glowing at sunset.
- Climb to the granary. The path is steep but short, and the view over the valley is the best in the area.
- Look for the painters. Some local artists paint with saffron, tea and indigo, then heat the paper to make the colours appear.
- Wear good shoes. The lanes are uneven and can be slippery.
Which tours stop here?
Aït Ben Haddou is part of our 4 Days Agadir to Merzouga, 8 Days Marrakech–Essaouira–Agadir–Sahara, 3 Days Agadir to Marrakech, and both of our Errachidia to Marrakech tours. On the 4-day Errachidia tour, you even sleep there and continue on the old Ounila Valley road to Telouet.